The January 2020 edition of the Salon de la Lingerie marks a major turning point for the textile sector. From now on, this sector will be the driving force for the fashion industry, due to its bold social commitment. Collections now reflect female consumers’ needs: for liberated, spontaneous women looking for meaning in their lives and seeking to justify the real value of their purchases and their wardrobe.
The energy of ecological initiatives was a primary source of bourgeoning inspiration for a new wave of creative design! Brands such as Nénés Paris, Esquisse, Swedish Stockings, Az/ar, and Occidente meet the needs of a palette of contemporary consumers who want to understand products and their manufacturing in-depth and know all about the sourcing of their materials. These brands pay close attention to their manufacturing and marketing processes in order to highlight their approaches and their expertise. Materials are traceable and eco-friendly, and their provenance is displayed for greater transparency and, thus, greater proximity with their customers. The sustainable macro-trend is first affecting the lingerie industry, which is closely tied to intimacy and, thus, our need for authenticity. Prices are enhanced by long-term purchases that are part of a need and desire to learn a new way to consume. Designers are innovating and launching new ways to manufacture. The Mina Storm brand, for example, features an exclusive offer of pieces made from upcycled end-of-bobbin waste yarn, creating an ultra-lightweight tulle.
Expert corsetry craftsmanship is magnified to create new products, offering a multitude of techniques and materials. Details are redesigned to feature velvet, tulle, or elastic finishings, proof of a true shake-up in the aging image of the corsetry field, bringing in a real modern spirit with a touch of boldness! Brands such as The Underargument add a lovely detail in the middle of the décolletage, highlighting it with a velvet ribbon for a play on the second-skin lightness of the subtle, tone-on-tone embroidery. Jolidon offers ultra-lightweight corsetry adorned with delicate lace and embroidery, as feather light as it is easy to wear. Gone are the days of binding, thick balconette bras that you had to readjust all day long! Corsetry now supports women in their desire for beauty and comfort, with more lightweight products. A brand like Bonluxe surprises the marketplace with its entirely revamped classic bodysuit, reshaped with supportive styling that doesn’t hold you back. It’s also much softer and more supple in terms of fabric and becomes a sort of second skin on the back and sides, a piece you simply must experience to reconcile with our grandmothers’ corselettes.
The men’s market seems to be developing to offer fresh products that are going way beyond basics. On the one hand, we have bold products proclaiming their love of luxurious quality through their choice of daring materials: leather and suede adorned with chic buttons and silk details at By Radouane. On the other, refreshing products in colorful half-toned palettes and prints that are delightfully delicate, humorous, and tasteful, at A-dam or Sixtine’s. Gradually, the men’s market is becoming increasingly creative, to the delight of both ladies and gentlemen!
Emancipation is also the keyword in this revolution for the industry, inviting us to break down barriers between genders and categories and change shapes, as we see at Les Girls les Boys and The White Briefs. Also, by offering only panties, like at La Chatte de Françoise or Madame porte la Culotte, suggesting that each of us is free to wear a bra, or not, an example of the overall “unzipped” mood that’s adding a lighthearted spirit and so much more pleasure to our shopping experience! Lingerie is freeing itself from its primary function, bringing on pleasureful products that must be comfortable. This is why a brand like K+1% is appearing on the period underwear market as comfortable, but truly stylish lingerie, with one factor not excluding the other!
As a result of this emancipation, lingerie collections are featuring new looks, with products that are part ready-to-wear, part accessory, or part beauty product. Lingerie is becoming a hybrid product that serves our intimate identity. Ultra-soft and supple and tenderly colorful knits at Eberjey (Designer of the Year) offer bralettes that can be worn as tops underneath a little cardigan. Ruban Noir takes lingerie into territory waiting to be conquered, somewhere between feminine allure and a sporty look, creating a conquering female mood. Its glossy materials act as a cosmetic for the body that can reflect whatever else is in your wardrobe. Lingerie asks to be seen and recognized as a signature beauty element. Love on the Snow adorns the shoulders and the neck, offering a feminine enhancement to your overall look. So much bold creativity makes us hope that this is a sign of profound change in the fashion industry toward more human-centered, creative products that will foster a newly healthy, balanced mode of consumption.