While the marriage between jewelry, a visible and ostensible symbol, and lingerie, a reflection of the hidden and intimate, may seem somewhat contradictory, it does convey several messages that reflect the desires and aspirations of our time. But how can such opposites be combined ?

Orientalism and pop culture

The question takes us back to 18th century Europe and the Orientalism movement, with its fascination for a fantasized East that chaotically mixes aesthetics and cultural references from the Maghreb and the Middle East. Fueled by a colonial imagery that drew on various dances and adornments to build a fantasized, sensual and erotic woman – at the opposite of the chaste and corseted Western woman – Orientalism was embodied by a maximalist lingerie covered in stones, gilding and coins, that made its way up to Parisian cabarets.

From then on, ornamental lingerie became the symbol of a transgressive sensuality that constantly infused popular culture in the 20th century, mostly through science fiction and heroic fantasy. Emblematic figures include Xena the warrior princess or Star Wars’ Princess Leia, whose rubber bikini adorned with golden metal remains one of the most iconic pieces of the genre to this day.

When the norms slide

And wherever counterculture becomes mainstream, esthetic norms begin to slide : from burlesque and drag shows to BDSM aesthetics, lingerie shows its embellished self, and pearls, chains and stones become a common sight carried by the most popular brands of the market, from Agent Provocateur to Aubade. Its proximity with the night scenes also reflects a growing demand for bold and adorned menswear pieces in which harnesses, pearls and charms play on eroticism through an aesthetic and practical lens.

Adorned lingerie has also brought a DIY culture – in which dancers and performers customize their own underwear – into contemporary brand imagery such as Victoria’s Secret’s, whose yearly bejeweled Fantasy Bra has become a major event for customers. And as it’s no longer unusual to see video game characters of World of Warcraft or Fortnite dressed in revealing armors, metallic arabesques and other hybrid styles, their aesthetics have widely influenced young customers’ desires and purchasing behaviors.

Shine to better reveal

Luxury and lingerie go hand in hand when it comes to putting the body on a pedestal. While 31% of French people claim to occasionally indulge in products that they consider luxurious, 62% of them chose jewelry, a piece of status loaded with symbolism. Jewelry makes the body precious; it embellishes and sublimates it in a world where the cult of appearances and the influence of on-screen content has opened many windows on our physical intimacy.

In this spirit, embroidery turns into adornment on a Lise Charmel bra, pearls and golden plating integrate a Livy embroidery, and the straps of Dolla Paris swimsuits are embellished with Quartz and Amethyst. Body jewelry and bejeweled lingerie have definitely blurred the lines between public and private, a not-so-contradictory marriage in a world where, now more than ever, one needs to shine in order to feel seen.