Every season, Jos Berry, founder of the consulting agency Concepts Paris, deciphers the major changes and the small shifts that transform the lingerie market. On January 18th she was back at Interfilière, where she gave us the keys to better understand the lingerie of tomorrow. A wardrobe of its own which answers a major aspiration: femininity as a 24/7 pleasure.

Spoiler alert: lingerie has never been this cool. Interlock, microfiber, knits and laces leave their comfort zone and take over sportswear and eveningwear – think Zoe Kravitz wearing YSL at the Golden Globes – while pajamas take over the streets and iconic shapes make a come back.

Below, Jos Berry breaks down the four new pillars of contemporary lingerie.

A new take on softness

Between nostalgia and intimate charm, beautiful underwear remains a daily pleasure, offering a tender and ironic take on modern coquetry. 

Currently the subject of a London exhibition, Marie Antoinette has inspired poetic pieces at brands such as Dominico or Free People. Bows, corsets and culottes are making a come-back, as is the tea-room aesthetic, which inspired a Prada window display in Milan. In the meantime, pajamas are having a major moment through bold prints and sophisticated cuts.

Pink remains the ambassador of this cheeky universe, not merely as a color, but as a whole culture.

Calm, Comfort, Cachemire

Comfort is no longer a luxury: it’s a logic. Nature inspires dense, textured fabrics, shades of night skies and fauna, while lingerie becomes a grounding force. 

Luxury bodywear is establishing itself as a growing market. Wool and cashmere blend at Intimissimi, Woolford, Etam and Chantelle, merino and Tencel are combined at Smartwool.

Masculine and feminine blend with softness and harmony on flannel pieces and robe-like coats, while tweed offers a wide variety of textures, powered by Chanel’s revival. At Adidas, velour tracksuits are adorned with Chinese traditional codes and become sophisticated loungewear pieces.

Boldness is now

Present is booming and inspires infinite colors, attitudes and tongue-in-cheek experimentation. From interior design to food, Labubus and the come-back of dog prints, humor becomes a language and pushes back all boundaries. 

In this climate, nightwear becomes a new field of expression. From colored lace embroidery on a tracksuit to XXL flowers on gingham, puffy pajama sleeves and everything ribbons (as seen at Damson Madder and Güldogan), nightwear is having a revolution and takes over the daily wardrobe.

Royalty for all

Silk, satin, velvet and lace become symbols of empowerment and self-celebration, in rich colors and fabulous shapes. They convey a whole attitude that gives life to the most unexpected collaborations, such as Maison Lejaby and JB Martin.

At Yini, lace is more creative than ever. At Maison Close, it grows around the body on an amazing jumpsuit. As for Tissage Perrin’s jacquards, they scream theatricality and drama à la Dries Van Noten, where feathers and colored veils give rise to the most extravagant outfits.